Eibach Spring Sportline Set Mustang GT 2015-2021

The EcoBoost is obviously a new platform for the Mustang, and so far we’re having a lot of fun with our Comp Orange EcoBoost project car. We had an access for a tuner so far and an Airaid cold-air intake. One of our more recent mods, a set of Niche Vicenza wheels. We actually haven’t showed you these yet because as soon as you put the wheels on the car, it made out next mod painfully obvious. Our EcoBoost definitely needed an attitude adjustment as far as the height went. Today, we’re going to remove our stock springs, and we’re going to lower down our EcoBoost using the Sportline kit from Eibach.

The Sportline is going to give us a little more of an aggressive drop in the pro kit that we recently installed on a GT. The reason we want the Sportline for the EcoBoost is we feel those cars actually sit a little bit higher than the GT factory. We wanted to make sure we brought it down where we wanted it. The kit is going to include two fronts, two rears, four new bump stops and new dust boots for the front struts as well. Here, you’ll see a comparison between stock springs and the EcoBoost. The height difference is enormous. Obviously, it’s not going to drop the car that much, but you can see it’s a much heavier-duty spring in the rear as well. These are going to do a great job not only lowering the car. It’s going to handle better and be much tighter.

For this installation, you’ll need a lift and a pull jack or jack and jack stands, panel removal tool, 17-millimeter wrench, half-inch impact gun, 13-millimeter socket, 15-millimeter socket, 18-millimeter socket, 21-millimeter socket, 15/16-inch socket, 6-inch extension, hammer and a spring compressor.

We recently showed you how to install the pro kit on a 2015 GT. Whether you have a GT EcoBoost or V-6, the installation process is going to be the exact same. In case you missed that video, we’ll run you through how to install the Sportlines on our EcoBoost. Once the wheel is off, you can remove the nuts that hold the strut to the strut tower. One of them is hidden underneath the cover here. You want to take two of these all the way off. The outside one, just leave it loose. We’ll start by removing the pieces off the strut itself. We need to remove the first one being the sway bar. We’re going to hold the in-link from the back and take the nut off from the front.

The ABS line is held under the strut as well as the spindle. It’s easiest to remove both of them so the line is out of the way. There’s little clips, put a little tool in there and pop the clip off. To be able to remove the nut and bolt that hold the spindle to the strut, you have to remove the brake caliper to get to these nuts back here, one bolt at the bottom, one bolt at the top. Let’s place it back here out of the way on the cam. We’re going to take the rotor off as well just because it’s in the way. We’ll start separating the spindle from the strut by removing these two nuts here. You don’t want to take them all the way off. These bolts are splined and have to be hammered out. We’re going to loosen them all over the ends, and we’ll hammer the splines out.

Leaving the nuts on actually serves two purposes: One, it will stop you from rounding off the end of the bolt making it hard to get the nut back on, the other, once you hammer it off the bolt is not going to fly out the front. Now we can separate the strut from the spindle. Then you want to reach up top, grab the strut nut that you left hand-tight. Remove that, and then remove your strut assembly. To remove the spring from the strut assembly, we have to remove the nut up here and then the strut mount itself. To do that, you want to compress the spring first. Don’t try to remove this because it will launch off at you.

Now we’re going to remove the nut from the top of the strut mount and take the strut mount off, and then decompress the spring. Eibach includes a new bump stop as well as new dust boots to work with your factory struts. Even though the new spring is much shorter than the factory spring, we still have to compress a little bit to install it. Before you install it, you want to make sure the Eibach is upward when you install the spring onto the strut. We’re going to put the new bump stop and dust boot into place on the strut. Then we can install our new spring. Make sure the strut is seated in the factory insulator. Our assembly is ready to go back in the car.

Now to put the strut assembly back in place, we want to slide it up and grab the last nut you removed. That will hold it on once it’s in place. Make sure the ABS line is in the front of the strut and hasn’t been tucked behind it. Once it’s up in place, grab the other two nuts. Again, put them on just hand-tight, enough to hold it in place for you. The strut hanging can line the spindle back up. Grab the spindle bolts and push them through. Now that’s tight, we can reinstall the rotor and the caliper. Reinstall the ABS line clips. Then reinstall your inline. The last step: Don’t forget to tighten up the nuts on the strut tower. You want to repeat the process on the other side, and you can move onto the rear.

To install the rear springs, we’re going to lower the sub-frame of the car one side at a time. Before you do that, you want to pull the ABS line off the bracket here and remove this bolt. That will give us more play with the brake line. This just pops right off. The bump stop is inside the rear shot, so we have to replace that as part of the installation. We also want to remove these two bolts to remove the shock from the body to allow it to go lower. To get the bump stop off, we’ve got to remove the bracket from the top of the shock. This plastic cover, just twist it and pop it. It will come off. Then remove that nut. This will just slide off the top.

We’re going to reuse the stock dust boots, so you want to push the bump stop down inside and remove it. The new bump stops are included. We found the opening in these is quite a bit smaller than the one in the factory. You’ll want to use something, a drill bit whatever. Bring this opening out a little bit more to make it easier to get this over the shock. Put it down in the stock boot. I found an extension works well to push it up on [inaudible 00:09:21]. Even if you’re reaming out, it’s still a tight fit which is good. You don’t want it to slide up and down too easily. You want to put it onto the shock, and then pull it down into place.

Now you put the mount back on top of the shock, and reinstall the nut. We’re going to reinstall the cap. We’re going to leave this disconnected and go underneath the car. Move the sub-frame bolt so you can lower it down to install the spring. We’ll start by supporting the sub-frame. Use a pole jack or a jack. You don’t want to just pull off the sub-frame bolts without support, and let it drop down because it is rather heavy. Before you work on the large sub-frame bolts, you want to take these two bolts up here and just loosen them up. Now we can take out the sub-frame bolt. Now you can slowly remove the rear making sure the sub-frame is supported.

Now we’ll go back to our pole jack and lower down the sub-frame. Get it down to the point where it gets loose. You want to pull down on it a little bit. Now you want to pull down on the control arm and pull the spring out of the part. The rear spring, again same as the front. With the Eibach upward, install the factory insulator, and put it up into place. You want to put it in from the top, the same way you took it out. The controller has a preset stop for the bottom of your coil spring. To make sure the factory insulator is up against it when you put the spring in place, you want to turn it until it’s tucked in there. Once you do that, you can lift the sub-frame back into place.

We’re going to put the bolts up into place for the sub-frame. Get them started by hand and make sure they go in straight. The same thing for the front bolt. Now you can tighten them up. Once they’re tight, we’re going to remove our jack. Reinstall the ABS line and the clip. Reconnect the brake line. Last step: Push the shock down into place. There’s actually two little studs that goes underneath to hold it. Line it up and reinstall the bolts. Repeat the process on the other side and your installation is finished.

The Eibach Sportline springs combined with our new Niche wheels gives our EcoBoost the perfect stance. The installation of these will probably take you between two and three hours. You should be back on the road in no time. For more installation videos for your 2015 Mustang, make sure you subscribe to our YouTube channel.